Correa Wood Works
Craftsman furniture featuring full integral mortise and tenon joinery. 100% solar powered!

Arizona Hall Table Part 5

With four coats of Arm-r-seal on the walnut parts and four coats of satin Waterlox on the mesquite I spent the evening assembling the hall tables I made last week. Before starting, I double check all of the joinery and ensure that all of the off set pin holes are to my liking. I also prepare all of the hardwood pins by chamfering the ends.

I break down the assembly process into small sections. With the stretchers already assembled and finished, I start by joining the rear legs to the upper apron.

After setting the pins, I move on to joining the stretcher assembly to the rear panel.

Next the upper side rails are added and then the front panel assembled exactly like the rear panel. With the rear panel attached to the side rails and stretcher, I drop it into the front panel assembly.

With the base assembled, it is ready to receive the top.

Repeating the same process, I assembled the walnut table.

The joinery on this piece is easily overlooked. The carefully wedged through tenon adds a wonderful detail.

Here is the line up of the newly finished mesquite table, the walnut hall table and my previously made mesquite hall table. Notice the red tone of the right most mesquite table. This deepens on over time and is sped up when subjected to sunlight.

One detail that remains on the hall tables are the ebony and ironwood plugs which will cap the walnut pins. I will work on the plugs in the morning.

With the moisture content of the mesquite top still a bit high, it becomes a waiting game. If I were to finish the top now, the potential for dimensional change with respect to the bread board ends and the center section of the top is too great to chance. While it would certainly look good, I would rather wait to finish sand the top and make it perfect than rush the process.



3 Responses to “Arizona Hall Table Part 5”

  1. Wow! Beautiful.

  2. Outstanding !!!

    I am a novice, so this question may be dumb. But, how did you drive the pins and and clean up the wedges without damaging the beautiful finish.

    • The pins are driven carefully using a hammer or urethane mallet. To recess them below the surface, a bolt or any object slightly less in diameter can be used. They are capped with ebony. the wedges are driven in using the same tool. they get flush trimmed with a Japanese pull saw. Painters tape is used to mask off the surrounding area in order to prevent damaging the wood or finish. The finish is applied to the face of the rail and tenon after the fact, the rest is pre-finished prior to assembly. blah blah blah. There is a hundred and one ways to get the job done. chances are if it makes sense to you then it will probably work. Thanks for checking out my blog and for asking some good questions.


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